Where Mould DRY Helps – suitability-limits

Where Mould DRY Helps – and Where It Does Not

An honest assessment by cause of damp: which mould problems Mould DRY resolves, which it does not, and what is required instead.

Mould-DRY

The short answer

Mould DRY works where mould forms because a wall surface is too cold and moisture from the room air condenses on it. The system raises the wall surface temperature above the dew point so that moisture no longer settles there.

Mould DRY does not work where water is pushing in from outside or rising from below. With a burst pipe, rising damp from the foundations, or groundwater pressing against a cellar wall, the cause has to be dealt with structurally. Heat alone only evaporates moisture at the surface while the masonry continuously draws in more water.

The decisive difference  Mould DRY fixes a wall that is too cold. It does not fix a structural defect.

How do I identify the cause?

A moisture meter shows where the wall is wet but not where the water comes from. Where the picture is unclear, an on-site building survey is worthwhile.

•  Damp patches start immediately above the floor and run across the wall as a horizontal band: indication of rising damp.

•  Mould sits in room corners, on external walls, behind furniture or on window reveals and appears mainly in the colder months: indication of condensation.

•  A patch grows quickly, stays local and the wall is distinctly wet there: indication of a leak.

•  Damage appears on the cellar wall and worsens after rain: indication of seepage from outside.

What Mould DRY does not do

•  It does not repair structural defects. A missing damp-proof course, a leaking gutter or a crack in the façade will remain.

•  Existing dark staining does not disappear on its own. Once the wall is dry, it has to be removed mechanically or covered cosmetically.

•  It does not heat a room. The panel is designed for the wall surface, not for the room air.

What to do if Mould DRY is not the right fit

For rising damp, a retrofitted damp-proof course is the correct measure, either as a mechanical barrier or by injection. For seepage against a cellar wall, external vertical tanking or curtain injection is required. Where there is a leak, repair comes first.

In all three cases Mould DRY can be used sensibly after the remedial work, to dry the wall out and keep it dry. Before that work, it cannot.

Suitability by moisture source

Cause
Suitability
Explanation
Cause Condensation on a cold external wall
Suitability Suitable
Explanation The surface temperature rises above the dew point, preventing condensation.
Cause Thermal bridge in the corner of a room
Suitability Suitable
Explanation The coldest area of the room is heated directly.
Cause Mould behind furniture and cupboards
Suitability Suitable
Explanation Cold air accumulates behind furniture; the panel counteracts this locally.
Cause Mould on a window reveal
Suitability Suitable
Explanation Due to its construction, the reveal is colder than the surrounding wall.
Cause High indoor humidity without a cold surface
Suitability Conditionally suitable
Explanation The cause is related to ventilation habits. The panel should not be the first measure taken in this case.
Cause Summer condensation in a cellar
Suitability Conditionally suitable
Explanation Only if the cellar wall has been proven to be sealed against external moisture.
Cause Rising damp from the foundations
Suitability Not suitable
Explanation Without a damp-proof course, capillary action continuously draws new moisture into the masonry.
Cause Seepage water or pressurised groundwater
Suitability Not suitable
Explanation Requires external waterproofing or drainage.
Cause Burst pipe or acute water damage
Suitability Not suitable
Explanation The leak must be repaired first.
Cause Widespread saturation following flooding
Suitability Not suitable
Explanation Industrial building dryers are required in this case.
FAQ

Frequently asked questions & answers

Does Mould-DRY work in cellars?
  • Only when the problem is summer condensation on a cellar wall that is sealed against external moisture. If the wall is drawing moisture from the ground, the system will not provide lasting results.
Does Mould-DRY kill mould?
  • The system deprives mould of the conditions it needs to survive by keeping the wall dry. Any visible mould deposits must also be removed.

Does Mould-DRY replace ventilation?
  • No. Ventilation reduces humidity in the air, while Mould-DRY increases the wall temperature. They work in different ways and complement each other.
Does Mould-DRY help following a burst pipe?
  • No. As long as water continues to enter the wall, the heat will only dry the surface. The leak must be repaired first.
How can I identify rising damp?
  • A typical sign is a horizontal band of damp directly above the floor, often accompanied by salt efflorescence and flaking plaster. Mould caused by condensation, on the other hand, usually appears in corners and on cold external walls.
No matching question found.

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