Frequently asked questions & answers

• As the appearance of salts, crusts and stains on the wall surface is generally associated with moisture in the wall, Mould-DRY can also help in these situations. Moisture escaping from the wall usually carries salts and dissolved minerals to the surface, where the moisture evaporates and the minerals form crystals.
• Mould-DRY dries more gently and over a longer period than conventional drying equipment, which also reduces the usual formation of crystals. Once the wall is dry, there is no longer any moisture in which the salts can dissolve, preventing them from being transported to the surface.

• When mould develops on wall surfaces, it may first appear as yellowish to greenish discolouration. These marks are commonly referred to as mildew stains. Dead mould that forms grey to black patches is also often described in this way.
• In addition to drying the wall with Mould-DRY, the stains should be removed manually by washing the surface. Painting over the area is only recommended once the wall-drying process has been completed.

• The sooner you begin drying, the sooner the wall will become and remain dry. This is particularly important for moisture that recurs seasonally and forcondensationon cold surfaces caused by high indoor humidity.

• Mould-DRY slowly dries the wall from the inside out using radiant heat and capillary action. Depending on the amount of incoming moisture and the heat energy applied, the moisture on the interior surface of the wall can be reduced or largely eliminated.

However, if the source of the incoming moisture is not remedied, continuous or seasonally recurring drying will be necessary.

• The output of a single module is generally insufficient to reach moisture deep within a corner.
  For damp corners, we therefore recommend using two heating elements. Mount one horizontally on each wall, to the left and right of the corner.

• Mould-DRY is manufactured entirely in Austria.
• Some of the raw materials come from Italy and Germany.
• All other components — including the cables — come from Austria and are processed with the greatest care at our facility in Carinthia, at the foot of Hochosterwitz Castle.

• Yes. The drying process causes the mould to die, after which it can simply be wiped away. As moisture is removed from the wall, new mould cannot develop.

• The wall above the heating elements only begins to warm by a few degrees once drying has taken place. Depending on the building material, the wall may not dry evenly across its entire surface. In our experience, controlling the heating elements using wall-temperature measurements or complex moisture sensors is therefore unsatisfactory.
• A simple timer has proven to be the most efficient solution.

• As the modules have a surface temperature of approximately 70°C, they do not present a fire risk when used as intended. The ignition temperatures of various materials are:
• Writing paper: approximately 350°C
• Newspaper: approximately 170°C
• Spruce wood dust: approximately 260°C
• Nevertheless, we recommend maintaining a clearance of at least 2 cm between the module and other objects.

• A heating element with a rated power of approximately 50 watts uses around 1.2 kWh of electricity during 24 hours of continuous operation. Two heating elements therefore use 2.4 kWh per day, and so on. If left switched on continuously, one heating element uses approximately 36 kWh per month. When used with a timer, the operating time can be reduced to between half and one-quarter of the original duration, depending on the progress of the drying process or when used for preventive drying.
  
• In heated rooms, Mould-DRY generally does not result in additional overall heating costs, as the primary heating system needs to provide correspondingly less heat.

• No. Mould-DRY first dries out the mould so that it can be removed without releasing spores. Once dry, the mould can simply be removed.

• If wall linings become damp or show signs of mould, it is important to determine where the moisture is coming from. Condensation reaching the wall from inside the room can be dried effectively with Mould-DRY, and this process is generally quite fast.
• However, if the moisture is coming from behind the lining — for example, from a saturated wall onto the wall or ceiling lining — the heat cannot act effectively through both the lining and the cavity or resolve the underlying cause. Although surface moisture on plasterboard or wooden walls can be dried, new moisture may enter again from behind once the drying process is stopped.
• In such cases, the most sustainable approach is to open the wall so that Mould-DRY can be positioned directly against the affected wall. The escaping moisture must also be able to rise and dissipate.

• Standard paper wallpaper is vapour-permeable, allowing the wall behind it to dry. Plastic-coated wallpaper, foil wallpaper, polystyrene wallpaper and other plastic insulation materials are generally not vapour-permeable and seal the wall.
• If moisture is present within the wall, it cannot evaporate effectively even when heat is applied to the insulation. The heat cannot penetrate sufficiently to reach and warm the wall. As a result, heat transfer and evaporation from top to bottom cannot function properly, while the almost impermeable surface prevents the wall from drying.

• Mould-DRY produces heat on both its front and rear surfaces. Heat from the rear penetrates the masonry and dries the wall through capillary action.
• A wall dries through capillary action in a similar way to blotting paper. Regardless of where you begin drying the blotting paper, moisture is drawn towards that area and evaporates there. The heat produced at the front creates a blanket of warmth in front of the wall and supports the capillary drying process.

• Yes. Mould-DRY is based on proven infrared drying technology used in building physics and building conservation. Studies show that targeted drying can effectively eliminate mould and help prevent it from returning.

• Room thermostats are generally unsuitable because they measure the room temperature, which has little influence on the wall-drying process. A room thermostat may be useful when Mould-DRY elements are used to heat a small toilet or a terrarium, for example.

• There should be no cause for concern as long as the recommended clearance of a few centimetres is maintained. Sensitive plastics or curtains containing plasticisers may become yellow over time. Increasing the distance from the unit can prevent this.

• By drying the wall completely, Mould-DRY removes the moisture that mould needs to survive, causing it to die.
• The visible mould patch then becomes lighter and can be cleaned or painted over if necessary.
• This is similar to kneeling in wet soil while wearing trousers: once the stain dries, it becomes lighter and the remaining dirt can be cleaned from the fabric.

• As Mould-DRY emits only natural warmth, plants generally respond well to it. Plants benefit from warmth, which can support healthy growth.

• Paint the wall with a vapour-permeable mineral paint. Sealing paints may trap the mould inside the wall while also preventing the wall from drying properly.
• This often results in condensation forming on the sealed surface, allowing new mould to develop. It can also damage the building structure and increase heating costs. A dry wall that can “breathe” provides better insulation, reduces heating costs and helps preserve the building fabric.
  The same applies to wallpaper: both the wallpaper and its adhesive must be vapour-permeable.

• A Mould-DRY heating element uses heat to dry the building material, removing the moisture that mould needs to survive and causing it to die. The dried residues can then be washed away or painted over. If the required drying time is observed so that moisture is removed deep within the wall, the drying process can reach the entire mould-affected area.
• Chemical mould removers act only on the surface. Mould located deeper within the wall is therefore not reached and may return to the surface once the effect of the chemical treatment wears off.

• No — quite the opposite.
• Infrared heat, familiar from traditional tiled stoves, is considered one of the most comfortable and pleasant forms of warmth. Our four-legged friends also appreciate it and particularly enjoy resting in the warm area in front of the Mould-DRY elements.

• The infrared heat acts mainly upwards, with some effect to the sides and downwards over a distance of approximately 10–20 cm. As the wall becomes drier, the drying effect penetrates deeper into the structure.
• Heat naturally tends to rise. More precisely, capillary action and gravity draw moisture towards the warm, dry area behind the heating element, where it evaporates and escapes into the room.
• In this way, the wall is dried from the bottom upwards. This removes the moisture that mould needs to survive, causing it to die.

• Mould-DRY slowly dries the wall from the inside out using radiant heat and capillary action. Depending on the balance between the amount of incoming moisture and the heat energy applied, the moisture on the interior surface of the wall can be reduced or largely dried out.
  
• However, as long as the source of the incoming moisture is not remedied, continuous or seasonally recurring drying will be necessary.

• The heating element, placed upright or laid flat on the windowsill, creates a blanket of warmth in front of the glass. Depending on its size, this warmth prevents or minimises condensation on the window.

• No, neither.
• If the modules are used with an analogue timer, the timer may make a noise when switching on and off.

• The M1 base module can be combined with up to four M2 extension modules. The number required depends on the extent of the mould growth and the size of the room.
• As a general rule, one module covers approximately 1 m². Use our module calculator to determine your requirements.
  Flexible and expandable for rooms of any size!

• Yes. The wall is warmed, and the blanket of warmth extending from the module across the wall creates a pleasantly warm feeling in the room. This effect also occurs when Mould-DRY is positioned in front of cold glazed surfaces or windows.

• The drying time varies depending on the wall material and its moisture content. As a general guide, the process takes approximately 4–6 weeks. Severely saturated walls, such as old, thick and damp stone walls, may take up to six months to dry.
• The duration also depends on whether the moisture has been present deep within the masonry for a long time, requiring the wall to dry from the inside out, or whether it is newly formed surface condensation.

• The drying time varies depending on the wall material and its moisture content. As a general guide, the process takes approximately 4–6 weeks. Severely saturated walls, such as old, thick and damp stone walls, may take up to six months to dry.
• The duration also depends on whether the moisture has been present deep within the masonry for a long time, requiring the wall to dry from the inside out, or whether it is newly formed surface condensation.

• The heating element is designed for continuous operation and does not have a built-in switch. Initially, leave the unit running 24 hours a day until the surface of the wall appears dry.
• You can then use a timer to reduce the operating time in hourly intervals. Once the wall is dry, you can remove the unit or use it elsewhere. However, continue to monitor the dried areas for new moisture forming or entering from outside. If this occurs, the drying process must be continued.
• How exactly does the drying process work?
• During the drying phase, the wall behind the Mould-DRY element is heated deep into its core, allowing the moisture to evaporate.
• As the wall becomes drier, capillary action and gravity draw more moisture from the upper part of the wall towards the warm, dry area behind the heating element, where it evaporates.
• Initially, only the area directly around the Mould-DRY module is heated and dried. As the drying process progresses, the entire wall can be warmed to room temperature. The heating element creates a blanket of warmth across the wall, helping to prevent moisture from the room air from condensing on its surface.

• A Mould-DRY element with a power rating of 50 watts (±10%) uses approximately 1.2 kWh of electricity over 24 hours of continuous operation (±10%), similar to a conventional 50-watt light bulb.
• After the initial drying phase, electricity consumption can be reduced by using a timer.
• For example, operating the element for one hour and then switching it off for two hours reduces consumption by two-thirds. Once the masonry has dried, operating it for four hours per day is often sufficient to keep it dry, significantly reducing running costs.

• Yes. The heat produced by Mould-DRY is not lost and contributes to heating the room. As a result, your primary heating system may need to provide less heat.

• Mould-DRY slowly dries the wall from the inside out using radiant heat and capillary action. Depending on the amount of incoming moisture and the heat energy applied, the moisture on the interior surface of the wall can be reduced or largely eliminated.
• However, if the source of the incoming moisture is not remedied, continuous or seasonally recurring drying will be necessary.

• The heating elements are designed for self-installation. As the manufacturer, we do not offer an on-site installation service.
  
• There may be a company in your region that stocks Mould-DRY and also provides installation services. If you know an electrician, interior fitter, renovation specialist or similar service provider, you can suggest that they register with us as a dealer. They can then purchase the units from us and install them for you.

• The first effects are often visible after just a few days. Depending on the moisture level, it can take 4–6 weeks for the mould to die completely and be removed safely. Mould-DRY then prevents it from returning in the same areas.

• Mould-DRY uses radiant heat to dry the surface of any vapour-permeable building material, while capillary action allows the drying effect to penetrate deeper into the structure.
  
• It also dries any damp surface reached by the radiant heat and rising warm air. The rising warm air helps prevent or minimise new mould spores from settling on the surface and reduces condensation on walls and windows.

• You can order the mains cable (2-pin Europlug to C7), as well as additional connection and extension cables (C7 to C8 appliance extension cables), from our accessories range. The cables can also be connected to one another.

• We dispatch orders daily from our warehouse in Carinthia. Within Austria, parcels usually arrive on the next or following working day. Delivery to Germany takes approximately 2–4 working days, while delivery to other EU countries may take between 3 and 7 working days, depending on the destination.
• Delays may occasionally occur during the peak winter season if our stock is exhausted and demand exceeds our production capacity.

• You will receive an invoice regardless of the payment method selected. The invoice will also include the estimated dispatch date.

• Within Austria and to certain regions of Italy, orders are sent by post. DHL is used for deliveries to the rest of the EU.
• For deliveries outside the EU, please contact us directly, as customs charges and shipping arrangements vary between countries.
• We recommend that customers in Switzerland provide a delivery address in Austria, Germany or Italy, as we can deliver to these countries without difficulty.

• M1 base module: 1 heating module, 1 mains cable, 2 stands (plastic support brackets), wall plugs and screws for wall mounting, a drilling template, and operating and installation instructions.
• M2 extension module: 1 heating module, 1 mains cable and 1 connection cable (75 cm or 90 cm).
• 2-module set: 2 heating modules, 2 mains cables and 1 connection cable.
• 3-module set: 3 heating modules, 2 mains cables and 2 connection cables.
• All sets also include stands and mounting materials.